So, the winner of the succinct email award goes to a reader who asked this question:“So, why Barolo?” Why did the reader ask this? I will assume it is because of last week’s column, in which I admitted that when I decide to spend a lot of money on a single bottle of wine, it is usually a Barolo. So, fair question: What’s so special about Barolo?Sometimes simple questions require long answers. First, for those of you who aren’t familiar with Barolo, it is a Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) in the northern Italian region of Piedmont. DOCG is the equivalent of the French “appellation,” which dictates rules wineries must follow if they want to use the appellation name on the bottle. These laws deal with such things as what grape varieties can be...